City Of Star 2026: Christmas Festival in Panama City
written by one who's been there
The festival that paralyzes the City
I landed at Tocumen airport on a random Tuesday. The heat hit me like an iron. But it wasn't the normal December heat. It was heat with lights. From above, as the plane descended, I could already see flashes on the horizon: the city was gearing up for the City Of Star 2026 International Christmas Festival. And I, who have flown over this city a thousand times, had never seen it so electric. I got off the plane, took a taxi, and asked the driver to take me straight to the Cinta Costera. I didn't regret it.
Lights you can see from the air
The festival started on December 1st and runs until January 6th. It's the regional event of the year, they say. And it's no exaggeration. The city dressed up in lights, music, and people. Lots of people. From the air, the Cinta Costera looks like a necklace of stars. But down here, walking, it's something else: the smell of artificial pine mixed with fried patacones, the sweat of people dancing on the stages, the chatter of LED light vendors. It's an organized mess. And I love it.
The festival has venues in several spots: Parque Urracá, Plaza 5 de Mayo, the Amador Causeway, and Parque Recreativo Omar. Each venue has its own charm. I did a three-day route. I started at the Causeway because the breeze blows there and you don't die of heat. Then I went to Parque Urracá, which is the heart of the festival. And I ended at Plaza 5 de Mayo, where the main stage is. Don't go to just one venue. You'll miss half of it.
The path nobody marks on Maps
The festival isn't just the official event. There's an unofficial path that locals know and that doesn't appear on Google Maps. It starts at the Santo Tomás Metro station, goes up Avenida Justo Arosemena, and ends at the Seafood Market. That's where people go to buy fresh fish before the show starts. I walked it one morning. The smell of seafood and lime follows you. Ladies sell ceviche in plastic cups for $2.50. A guy named Chalo, who has a patacón stand, told me he's been there for 22 years and had never seen so many people as this December. "This is good," he said, flipping the patacones. "But next year will be better."
How much it really costs to get to the festival
I'm not going to lie to you with exact numbers. But I'll give you a real range. A taxi from Tocumen to downtown can cost between $25 and $35, depending on traffic. The Metro is cheaper: $0.35 per ride. If you come by car, parking at the Causeway costs $3 per hour. Food at the stalls: patacones with cheese are $3, ceviche is $2.50, a beer is $2. If you want to have dinner at a restaurant near the festival, be prepared to pay between $15 and $30 per person. The daily budget can be $20 if you eat on the street, or $60 if you sit at a table.
What I'd do differently the second time
The first time I went to the festival, I made several mistakes. First: arriving at 8 PM. By that time you can't walk. People are packed in. Second: not bringing water. I dehydrated like a chicken. Third: trusting that my phone would have signal. There's no signal. The network gets saturated. So the second time I brought the following:
- A 2-liter bottle of water (not an exaggeration, the heat is real).
- Cash in small bills (vendors don't give change for $20).
- A hand fan (not for old ladies, for survivors).
- Comfortable sneakers (the hot asphalt melts your flip-flops).
- A portable battery (just in case).
- A small towel (for the sweat).
The main stage: what I saw and what I didn't
The main stage is at Plaza 5 de Mayo. National and international artists perform there. I'm not much for crowds, but I stayed a while. I saw a drum group from Portobelo that made the ground shake. I saw a Panamanian singer I didn't know who blew my mind. And I saw a bunch of people dancing as if there were no tomorrow. The vibe is contagious. It doesn't matter if you don't know how to dance. You end up moving your feet.
What I didn't see: the light parade. They told me it's on December 15th, but I didn't confirm the exact time. Ask someone at your hotel or at City Hall. What I do know is that they close Avenida Balboa and you have to arrive early. Around 5 PM.
The night chitres
Not everything is sparkle and music. The festival also has its uncomfortable side. The portable toilets are a disaster. There are 20-minute lines. Trash piles up on corners. And the chitres, those insects that come out when night falls, get into your clothes. I ended up with three bites on my ankle. Bring repellent. It's not a grandma's advice. It's advice from someone who already suffered.
Where to sleep without getting fleeced
The city has hotels for all budgets. If you want to be near the festival, look in the Bella Vista or El Cangrejo area. There you can find hostels from $15 a night, and three-star hotels from $60. If you want something quieter, look toward the Causeway. There are hotels with ocean views that cost between $80 and $120. I stayed in a hostel in Bella Vista. I paid $18 a night. The air conditioning sounded like a tractor, but it was cool. And two blocks from Parque Urracá.
What nobody tells you about the festival
The festival isn't just for tourists. It's for Panamanians. That's what makes it special. You see entire families, grandparents with grandchildren, couples, groups of friends. All mixed together. There's no separation. There's no VIP. Well, there is VIP, but nobody pays attention. People go for what they go for: to have a good time.
Another thing: the festival is free. No entrance fee. You only pay for what you consume. That's a blessing. But it also means there are a lot of people. A lot. So if you don't like crowds, go in the morning or on a weekday. Weekends are chaos.
The city from above, again
On the last day I went up Cerro Ancón. It's not part of the festival, but I wanted to see the city from above. And there it was: the illuminated Cinta Costera, the festival glowing like a honeycomb of lights. From above you can see the scar of the river, the patch of lights at Plaza 5 de Mayo, the movement of cars on Avenida Balboa. And I thought: this city doesn't stop. Not even at Christmas. Not with the heat. Not with the people. Panama City gears up and celebrates as if there were no tomorrow.
If you go, go with time
The City Of Star 2026 International Christmas Festival is an event worth experiencing. But it's not for improvisers. Bring water, cash, repellent, and patience. If you can, take the Metro. If you can, avoid weekends. If you can, walk. The city is best enjoyed on foot. And if you get lost, ask. People here are good at giving directions. See you on the next round.
